Options Beyond Singapore

Having lived here for some time, I was humbled when I realised that, like many Singaporeans, I had many misconceptions about Thailand (no thanks to erroneous information from ignorant people and government propaganda). The more I got to know the place, the more I realised how little I actually knew – about the things around me and about the world in general. Although she has her merits, I also began to see how overrated Singapore really is.

Safety

Singapore is one of the safest countries in the world with low crime rates. Many Singaporeans have quoted examples like the ones to show how safe Singapore is, but I think these are overrated:

• Being able to walk on the streets at 3am and not getting mugged.

I have gone club hopping in Thailand and returned to my room smashed drunk at 5am many times before without incident. Anyway, seriously, how often do you go home at this time of night? Also, just as you will not go into any dark alleys at night in another country, would you go into the back alleys of Geylang or Little India at this time?

• Being able to go out or sleep in peace without having to worry about your home being burgled.

Every condo and most housing developments in Thailand are looked after by 24hr security. Guards will patrol the compound throughout the day and night.

• Being able to reserve a seat or table in restaurants/cafes/food courts using a cellphone or handbag.

This is a distinctively Singaporean trait and a really anti-social act.

• Being able to leave your belongings, such as your handbag/cellphone/laptop unattended in a public place for short periods of time.

This is a dumb thing to do.

Some think that Singapore’s safety is due to strict criminal laws and an efficient police force. But I think that it is due to the small size of Singapore more than anything else. Singapore’s small size makes it easier to monitor individuals, set up CCTV cameras in every corner, and limits the space a criminal can escape to. The high population density also makes it more likely for a criminal to be spotted. Bigger countries like Thailand have a harder time controlling crime as a criminal knows that he can commit a crime and escape to another province, into a rural area, or into the woods the same day, without anyone knowing. Hence, he will be emboldened by this sense of security.

The low crime rate in Singapore might not reflect the actual situation at all. Crimes can be marked down in severity or an offence may be deemed as not a crime, depending on how the police categorizes an offence. For example, to the surprise of many people, voluntarily causing hurt is a non-arrestible offence, meaning to say, if someone were to punch you in the face tomorrow, the police is not going to arrest your attacker even if you report the case. So naturally, these have a direct impact on crime statistics. More tellingly, the ‘four floors of whores’ in Singapore is still doing a roaring business and mainland Chinese immigrants are openly peddling pills and other sex enhancement products along Geylang Road.

Anecdotal evidence also suggests that, ever since Singapore started attracting poor and poor quality immigrants to work and settle here, crime have actually increased and many of these crimes are committed by these new immigrants. With anti-foreigner sentiment on the rise, the media often avoids mentioning the nationality of an offender in their news reports (but the name is often a dead giveaway).

So while Thailand is more dangerous than Singapore, as long as you exercise common sense and observe the basic safety rules, it is still relatively safe here.

Singapore is a Multi-Racial Society

Not many countries in the world have a multi-racial society, so this is something that is special about Singapore, or rather, used to be special. Used to because in recent years, many new immigrants from China, Philippines, Vietnam etc have been added to this mix, so much so that true born and bred Singaporeans are in real danger of becoming the minority in Singapore.

So while the government still depict the original four races of Singapore in their propaganda, society has become more fragmented than before.

Shopping

Singapore is touted as a shopper’s paradise. But then again, whatever you can get here, you can get it in Thailand and probably at a lower price too! It is no wonder many Singaporeans go crazy over the shopping in Thailand. And the popular places that most of them know, e.g. Pratunam, MBK, Central World, Siam Square/Centre, Siam Paragon etc, are just the tip of the iceberg.

Food

Besides shopping, Singaporeans go crazy over the food in Thailand as well. Besides Thai food (which already has a very wide selection from the southern, central, northeast, and northen parts of Thailand), many types of international cuisine (Vietnamese, Korean, Indian, Mexican, Arab etc) are now available as well to cater to the increasing numbers of foreigners going to Thailand.

Even at tourist prices, food and drinks in Thailand are still cheaper than in Singapore, especially the seafood. And, just like Singapore, food is available around the clock.

Nightlife

Thailand has a more vibrant and exciting nightlife scene than Singapore - from pubs, karaoke bars, restaurants with live bands, discos with live bands, clubs, to hostess bars, massage establishments, and agogo bars.

Prices for beer and liquor are much lower than in Singapore as well. For example, a small bottle of beer in a tourist bar would cost between 80 to 120 baht (about SGD 3.20 to SGD 5.00). The same beer would easily cost about double the price in Singapore.

Transportation

There is an extensive bus and train network in Singapore. The buses cover practically every corner of the island and are air-conditioned and comfortable. As the trains are managed by people with no relevant experience and credentials, they are prone to breakdowns these days and be prepared for a squeeze if you decide to get on one.

Taxis are available as well but can be difficult to get, especially during peak hours and holidays. Although they run on meter, the additional surcharges are many and confusing, so much so that I have given up trying to understand how they work. Starting fare is from SGD 3.00 onwards. During peak hours, be prepared to pay about 25% on top of the metered fare. After midnight, be prepared to pay about 50% on top. Booking a taxi over the phone incurs another SGD 2.00 to SGD 3.00 extra.

Cars in Singapore are one of the most expensive in the world. Be prepared to pay SGD 100,000 to SGD 120,000 for a Toyota Altis, usable for only 10 years, according to government regulations.

There are public buses and trains in Bangkok. Many of the buses are still non-air conditioned, presumably to keep costs low. The trains run on a network that covers all of the major areas pretty well and while crowded at peak hours, it is not as bad as in Singapore.

Taxis mostly run on meter although you may run into a cheeky driver once in a while who tries to scam you. If you should encounter this, just decline his offer politely and hop into the next taxi that comes along. Although there is a phone booking service, I have never used it as taxis are plentiful in Bangkok at all times of the day (and night). The starting fare is about 35 baht (about SGD 1.40) and there are only the highway tolls and minimal surcharges to contend with, even after midnight.

The ubiquitous tuk tuks complement the buses, trains, and taxis. They are useful for when you need to get to somewhere near in a hurry. But take note that the breakneck way the drivers usually drive at can be nerve-wrecking. Most of the drivers will try to scam you as well by charging you a higher price than a taxi ride for the same distance.

Car prices in Thailand are reasonable. A brand new Toyota Altis costs about 600,000 to 700,000 baht (about SGD 24,000 to SGD 28,000). You can use the car until it falls apart.

In the other provinces such as Chiangmai, even though there are tuk tuks and pickup taxis, they mostly operate in the city areas. As a result, most people will have at a motorcycle and car to move around on or at the very least, a motorcycle.

Housing

80% of the population stay in government built Housing Development Board (HDB) flats in Singapore. A typical 3-room flat (that comes with a kitchen, a living room, and two bedrooms) costs between SGD 250,000 to SGD 450,000, depending on various factors such as the number of years left on the lease (yes, these flats are 99 years leasehold), location, proximity to amenities etc. An average Singaporean is expected to spend 30 years of his/her life paying off the mortgage.

In Chiangmai, you can get a studio or one-bedroom unit in a decent condo from 1.8 million baht (about SGD 72,000) onwards. The unit is freehold and fully furnished to boot. Landed property are more expensive and they range from 2.0 to 25 million (about SGD 80,000 to SGD 1 million), depending on various factors such as the size of the unit, location, construction, and how luxurious the development is. But even a typical unit at the lower end is freehold and it is a detached unit (some might call it a bungalow) with a garden.

Foreigners cannot buy land in Thailand but in Chiangmai, condos and houses can be rented for between 10,000 to 15,000 baht (about SGD 400 to 520) per month.

Utilities

In Singapore, water from the tap is safe to drink. In Thailand, you can also get safe (and probably even cleaner too!) drinking water from the tap, simply by installing an inexpensive and compact water filtration system under your sink.

The cost of water and electricity in Thailand is low as well. For example, my utilities bill per month is about 300 baht (about SGD 12) for water and 2200 baht (about SGD 90) for electricity (and this is based on using water and electricity as much as I want, leaving the water running while showering, leaving the air conditioner on the while day etc). In Singapore, be prepared to pay at least double the amount.

Healthcare

Singapore healthcare is not in the best of state right now; high costs, shortage of beds, shortage of nurses, and shortage of doctors. Many people I know have a personal horror story involving high hospital bills or having received poor quality treatment at a government hospital. The recent Hepatitis C outbreak scandal which led to seven deaths did not help to improve public perception either.

Healthcare in Thailand is a little unusual. Unlike Singapore where there are clinics, catering to minor ailments, operated by general practitioners in almost every corner of Singapore, there are very few clinics in Thailand. Thais go to hospitals for practically all ailments that cannot be cured using self-medication. Despite this, there is never a shortage of beds although, they are facing the same nurse and doctor shortages.

Comparing the state of healthcare in both countries, although I would still come back to Singapore for treatment for major illnesses, I like Thailand’s healthcare system because:

• There is never a shortage of beds (maybe there is, but I have never experienced it).
• Hospital facilities and amenities can range from the basic and minimal to the top of the range (with your own mini fridge and microwave in the room), depending on cost.
• I am usually able to see the doctor within 30 to 60 mins within an appointed time. In Singapore, be prepared to wait for more than an hour after the appointed time.
• For admission, the fastest I have ever reached the ward (from registration to doctor’s check to going to the ward) was 30 mins. In Singapore, be prepared to wait hours or even until the next day.
• The nurses and doctors are all Thais (Singapore has imported nurses and doctors from other countries and I do not trust their skills and credentials).
• A comprehensive hospitalisation plan that costs about SGD 1000 per year covers all hospitalisation costs. I do not have to pay for anything out of my pocket except a small amount for medicine from the pharmacy.

Everything Works in Singapore

It used to be held up as a testament of Singaporean efficiency – the fact that everything works in Singapore. Again, used to because this is no longer the case now. For example, getting unqualified, incompetent people to do the job has resulted in breakdowns in the public transport system and generated business losses (NOL), while getting lowly paid, poorly trained foreign workers to do the job has resulted in lowered productivity, reduced quality standards, and cutting corners (look at the poor quality of newly built government flats).

Singapore’s infrastructure is straining under the weight of too many people. The system is breaking down and it does not show any signs of getting better soon.

Corruption

As this is a sensitive topic, I shall not say much except that a search on the online forums on this topic will reveal that things are not as squeaky clean in Singapore as many think.

For Thailand, while corruption sometimes results in policies that are not beneficial to the country, a little corruption can sometimes be helpful, such as when you need to get something done or done in a hurry, or get out of a bind.

Conclusion

While Singapore is clean and safe, the average Singaporean now faces the prospect of having to take public transport for the rest of his life, continue working for the next thirty years just so that he can pay off the mortgage on a HDB flat, and then face the prospect of having to sell the same flat back to the government later on just so that he can receive a pittance every month for survival in his twilight years. He is not expected to be able to retire and has to keep working until he drops dead.

While moving is not possible or suitable for everyone, I hope the points above help people to know a little more about Thailand as well as understand that they do have options beyond Singapore’s shores.

Deciding to Move - Pull Factors

I then went on a road trip to various parts of Thailand with the missus (who is Thai btw). Travelling by car gave us the flexibility to stop at anywhere along the way or to stay longer at a certain place if we liked it. We went to several provinces; some were tourist spots so they were more developed while others were tiny towns with small populations. It was not until we reached Chiangmai that we felt right at home.

Chiangmai is situated about more than 700km from Bangkok and is a culturally rich city in Northen Thailand. It has developed rapidly in the past few years and the place appealed to us for many reasons:

• It is modern but more laid-back than Bangkok. The city is well connected by roads and highways and there are several major shopping centres here at the moment.
• There is a vibrant nightlife scene with little of the sleazy type.
• While modern, it has also many natural attractions such as waterfalls, hot springs, mountains, nature parks, and flora and fauna.
• There are also many man-made attractions such as night markets, extreme sports, zoos and parks featuring tigers, monkeys, snakes, elephants, and crocodiles.
• It is culturally rich with many festivals and structures such as modern and ancient temples.
• Various types of Thai and international cuisine are readily available.
• Modern healthcare facilities.
• Lower cost of living than Bangkok.
• Nice weather. The weather is cool in the months of Dec to Feb.

So when we saw an apartment for sale at a price that we knew that we could pay it off right away, coupled with the factors above, it was a no-brainer decision.

Looking back, the actual move was not that difficult - that involved mostly financial, administrative, and logistical issues. The biggest hurdle I had to overcome was mental, I had to convince myself that it could be done. This was because I did not know anyone around me (from my family, friends, and acquaintances) who had ever done this and also, the years of Singaporean social conditioning was advising me to give it up and play it safe.

But I did not let it go and in 2011, I took a deep breath and took the plunge and today,  I am glad I did. I am enjoying a higher quality of life here than I ever could in Singapore and it appears that I am not the only one who thinks so. For I have met other Singaporeans who have settled here and not one of them have expressed a desire to return to Singapore.

Deciding to Move - Push Factors

It is perhaps appropriate that my first few posts should be about the reasons behind the decision to move to Thailand. After all, I am a citizen of one of the cleanest, safest, and most liveable cities in the world (so they say!). So why would I want to live anywhere else, and (horror of horrors!) in a Third World country for that matter?

Like many Singaporeans, I had knowledge of only a couple of touristy places in Thailand (e.g. Phuket, Pattaya, Bangkok) prior to the move. The experiences were mostly positive but superficial (nice and friendly people, great local music, good shopping, cheap and good food, vibrant nightlife scene etc). But still, these were enough to make a lasting impression.

It was only when the Government of the day started importing foreigners in by the bus, train, and plane-loads that got me thinking seriously about emigration. These foreigners (dubbed foreign talents by the Government) were no talents; they were mostly low paid workers. Businesses preferred them over locals as their pay was much lower, were willing to work for longer hours, and they also could not switch employers easily as they were employed on a contract basis.

However, the presence of these foreigners soon created problems. Instead of creating good jobs for the locals (as claimed by current Prime Minister Lee Hsien Loong), they competed with them for jobs. Their willingness to accept much lower pay also depressed the wages of the locals. Singapore became more crowded, public infrastructure started breaking down, and the cost of living, housing, and cars rose dramatically.

At that point in time, I realised that, as an average Singaporean, there was not much of a life left in Singapore for me. Singapore is known to be a sterile place with few things to do and in addition, I was looking at the three major commitments in a typical Singaporean's life and they are:

• Buying a HDB flat (these usually come with a 30 year mortgage).
• Buying a car (cars prices in Singapore are known to be astronomically high).
• Starting a family (the cost of raising a kid in Singapore is high).

Of course, some may argue that the above are just lifestyle choices, you can do without one or more of them. While that is true, this example shows that, unless you are a high-flyer or business owner that is raking in big bucks, simply any two of the above (or maybe even one) will keep an average Singaporean in debt for the greater part of his/her life. And, with the cost of living rising so quickly over the years, you may even need to sell your flat just so that you have enough money to survive in your twilight years.

Realising that the current situation can only get worse, I knew I had to do something quick while I still had the time, energy, and earning capability.